We began Saturday with the excitement of many dirty pilgrims and no running water. Either Kirk or Paul had the last shower and apparently used up all the water on the Rez. No toothbrushing, no showers, no dishes, no toilets — well, until our enterprising pilgrims hauled water from the nearby grotto to fill the toilet tank, so at least we had that. No time to worry about this though for our day was beginning.
We left, together with Cathy Wright and Carrie Cate (Fr. Andrew’s
sisters), to visit a local potter, Rainy. Rainy does indigenous pottery, harvesting clay from nearby mesas, creating her own paint and paintbrushes from local materials and supports her family with this work. Her pottery is white pottery, unlike the more common reddish-brown hopi pottery, and is all hand-built, coil work. She gave us a demonstration, along with her daughter and grandson (who were in contemporary Hopi dress), and allowed each of us to try our hand at building, burnishing, and painting. Her work is exceptionally fine and shows a great deal of respect for what the earth provides to her for her work. Many of her patterns she has adapted from the broken shards of Awatovi, which is quite close to her childhood home. Rainy is also an archaeologist by training and uses that field of knowledge as well when designing her pieces.
After Rainy’s house, we went to a small trading post and were able to find some gifts and keepsakes for the trip. This is where
the “Don’t Worry, Be Hopi” shirts come from. From there, we went to the Hopi Cultural Center for lunch, where they serve some traditional Hopi food. Numquavi is a hominy stew with lamb that was quite good and they served frybread as well. Most of the pilgrims ate something traditional, though a few burgers were also in evidence at their table. The food was all quite good.
After lunch, we made our way in the Wookiemobile (our large van) to the village of Hotevilla on Third Mesa. Hotevilla was having their Kachina Home Dance that
day and we were able to go for part of it. This also allowed us to walk through one of the villages. No photography, sketching or recording of any kind is allowed (in fact, we saw someone taken away by law enforcement for trying to record the dance). We climbed up on a roof (along with many others) to be able to watch the dance. The Home dance is the last dance of the season for the Kachinas. Afterwards, they return home to the San Francisco Mountains in the west. At this dance they give gifts to boys (bows and arrows) and girls (kachina dolls or baskets) attached to stalks of corn or cat-tails. Other gifts of produce and piki bread are also given out. They sing and dance for about 4 songs before returning to rest and then coming out for another ‘set.’ It was fascinating to see. Primarily, the kachinas that danced that day in Hotevilla were Longhair Kachinas. The picture here is simply of the representative doll of that kachina, to provide an idea. There was also another sort of kachina, with a sort of checkerboard face and pointed nose, but we haven’t yet been able to identify it.
This day we also began to turn our face toward home and we discussed what ‘home’ was and where we find our spiritual home, as Jesus calls upon us to abide with him.
After the dance, we packed up the remainder of our belongings at St. Joseph’s Mission in Keams Canyon, said good bye to Cathy and Carrie, and drove to Winslow, AZ, where we had lodging arranged at St. Paul’s Episcopal Church.





